For artists • Acrylic • Watercolor • Oil • Gouache

Mix any color
without making mud.

Pick two paints, slide the ratio, and see what you’ll really get. Plus 18 go-to recipes for skin, greens, skies and neutrals — with tints, shades and harmonies that actually work on canvas.

12Pigments in the lab
18Tested recipes
4Harmony builders
RYB
Artist wheel
Primary: Red, Yellow, Blue
Secondary: Orange, Green, Purple
Warm: Reds → Yellows
Cool: Greens → Purples

Opposites neutralize. Neighbors harmonize. A useful starting principle — exact results vary by pigment and brand.

#E86A5A • Burnt CoralTap any swatch to copy HEX

🎨 Mix Lab

Choose two pigments (artist RYB mixing, not screen RGB). Slide to change the ratio — the result updates like real paint.

Interactive • Try it
Paint ACadmium Red
+
Paint BCadmium Yellow
50% RedRatio50% Yellow
Vivid Orange#F97316

Red + Yellow = Orange. Add more yellow for marigold, more red for burnt orange.

Steps left→right: 80/20, 60/40, 50/50, 40/60, 20/80. Tap a step to preview it.

Harmony Finder

Pick a base color — get palettes that won’t clash. Perfect for choosing a limited palette before you start.

Cerulean Blue
#2A7FFF
Cool • High chroma
💡 Pro tip

Stick to 3–5 colors per painting. Use your harmony as the whole palette — cohesion comes free.

Recipe Library

Real mixes artists reach for daily. Parts are by squeeze / brushload — e.g. 3:1 means 3 parts first color to 1 part second.

18 recipes

Value & Temperature

Color gets attention. Value does the work. If it reads in grayscale, it will read in color.

Value scale — squint test

Slide to preview values. Photograph your painting in black & white — lights and darks should still separate.

1 • White5 • Mid9 • Black

Value 5: Middle gray. Most skin in shadow, foliage in sun.

Warm vs Cool — same hue, different mood
☀️ WARM

Advances forward. Sunlight, skin, autumn.

❄️ COOL

Recedes back. Shadows, water, distance.

Trick: warm light = cool shadows. Cool light = warm shadows. Paint that and depth appears.

Fix-It Clinic

Every painter hits these. Here’s the rescue — no starting over.

🟤 My colors turned muddy / brown-gray

You mixed complements (opposites) or three primaries at once. Mud = Red + Yellow + Blue in near-equal parts. Fix: pick a dominant hue and lean into it. Add more of your main color, or rescue with a touch of white + that hue. Start with 2 pigments, then add modifiers a speck at a time — and mute with a near-complement, not the exact opposite.

🎈 Color is too bright / looks like candy

It needs muting, not darkening. Add a tiny speck of its complement (e.g. a dot of purple into yellow) or mix in a little burnt umber / raw umber. Avoid black — it kills chroma without muting cleanly in brights.

🌫️ Too dark, but adding white makes it chalky

White cools and desaturates. Instead lighten with a lighter analogous color: lighten blue with cerulean + white, lighten red with orange + white, lighten green with yellow-green. Or glaze a lighter opaque layer on top once dry.

🍃 Greens look fake / neon

Tube green + yellow is too pure. Mute with a speck of red, burnt sienna, or ochre. Nature greens are almost always yellow-leaning and slightly brown. Try: Sap Green + Yellow Ochre + touch of Burnt Umber.

👤 Skin tones look orange or ashy

Orange skin = too much red/yellow, not enough blue. Add a whisper of blue or purple. Ashy skin = too much blue/black. Warm it with burnt sienna + yellow ochre. Always mix skin from Red + Yellow Ochre + White + speck of Blue — adjust, don’t restart.

💧 Watercolor got dull when layered

Overworking and too many layers. Let layers dry fully, use fewer glazes (2–3 max), and mix on the palette not on damp paper. Use transparent pigments for glazing; opaque ones go muddy fast.

The 3 rules that save most paintings

1) Start with 2 pigments, add modifiers gradually  •  2) Mute with complements, darken with umber  •  3) Check value in grayscale

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